How to Fix a Dripping Faucet Yourself

Drip. Drip. Drip. That sound at 2 a.m. isn’t just annoying — a faucet dripping once per second wastes over 3,000 gallons of water a year. That’s money running straight down your drain, literally. The good news: learning how to fix a dripping faucet is one of the most satisfying beginner plumbing repairs, and it usually takes under 30 minutes.

The first time I attempted this, I was terrified I’d flood my bathroom. I laid out towels like I was preparing for surgery. Twenty minutes later, the drip was gone, I hadn’t flooded anything, and I felt like I’d unlocked a superpower. Here’s the full process, including the mistakes to avoid.

What You’ll Need

Adjustable wrench or basin wrench
Phillips and flathead screwdrivers
Replacement parts: washers, O-rings, or a cartridge (see below — buy these after identifying your faucet type)
Plumber’s grease (silicone-based)
White vinegar and an old toothbrush for cleaning mineral buildup
Towels and a small bowl or bucket
Your phone — to photograph each step as you disassemble

That last one is the most important tool. Photograph every step. When you’re staring at six small parts wondering what order they came out in, you’ll thank yourself.

Step 1: Turn Off the Water

Find the shut-off valves under the sink — there should be two, one for hot and one for cold. Turn both clockwise until they stop. Then turn on the faucet to release pressure and drain the remaining water. If you can’t find shut-off valves (common in older homes), turn off the main water supply to the house. Never skip this. I have a friend who did, and his kitchen became a water feature.

Step 2: Plug the Drain

Drop the sink stopper in or stuff a rag in the drain. Faucet parts are small, round, and magnetically attracted to drains. This thirty-second step has saved countless screws from plumbing oblivion.

Step 3: Identify Your Faucet Type

This determines what part you’ll replace. There are four main types:

Compression faucets — two separate handles you twist multiple turns; the oldest and most common type in older homes. The drip is almost always a worn rubber washer.
Ball faucets — single handle that moves over a rounded cap; common in kitchens. Usually needs a repair kit with springs, seats, and O-rings.
Cartridge faucets — single or double handle; the handle moves up/down or side to side smoothly. The whole cartridge gets replaced.
Ceramic disk faucets — single lever over a wide cylindrical body; the most modern type. Usually needs new seals or a new ceramic cylinder.

Not sure which you have? Take a photo and show it to the hardware store staff — they identify these all day long. Or remove the part (steps below) and bring it with you to match exactly.

Step 4: Disassemble the Faucet

The exact steps vary, but the pattern is the same:

Remove the handle. Look for a small screw — often hidden under a decorative cap that pops off with a flathead screwdriver. Unscrew and lift the handle off.
Remove the packing nut or retaining nut with your adjustable wrench. Turn counterclockwise. Wrap the wrench jaws with a cloth to avoid scratching the finish.
Pull out the stem, cartridge, or ball assembly. Note the orientation — this is where your photos earn their keep.

If parts are stuck, don’t force them. Spray with a penetrating lubricant or soak with vinegar for 15 minutes to dissolve mineral buildup, then try again.

Step 5: Replace the Worn Part

Compression faucet: Unscrew the small screw at the bottom of the stem and swap the old washer for an identical new one. Also replace the O-ring around the stem. Apply a dab of plumber’s grease to both.
Ball faucet: Replace the springs, rubber seats, and O-rings with the parts from a repair kit (about $10–$20, brand-specific).
Cartridge faucet: Pull the old cartridge straight out and push the new one in, aligning it exactly as the old one sat. These cost $15–$40 depending on brand.
Ceramic disk faucet: Replace the rubber seals, or the entire cylinder if the disks are cracked or scored.

While you have it apart, clean everything with vinegar and the old toothbrush. Mineral deposits on the valve seat are a common hidden cause of persistent drips — if the seat is rough or pitted, smooth it with a valve seat wrench or replace it.

Step 6: Reassemble and Test

Put everything back in reverse order, using your photos as a guide. Tighten nuts firmly but don’t over-tighten — that cracks ceramic parts and crushes washers. Turn the water supply back on slowly, then turn on the faucet to flush out any debris. Check for drips. Check under the sink for leaks at the supply connections.

If it still drips, the valve seat may need attention, or you may have the wrong washer size. Disassemble once more and double-check — second attempts go much faster.

When to Call a Plumber Instead

DIY has limits, and knowing them is part of being handy:

Water is leaking from the base of the faucet or under the sink and you can’t find the source
The shut-off valves are seized or broken
Pipes are corroded, leaking, or visibly damaged
You’ve replaced the parts correctly and it still drips — the valve seat inside the faucet body may be damaged beyond a simple fix

There’s no shame in calling a professional. A plumber’s visit costs far less than water damage.

FAQ

Q: What causes a faucet to drip?
A: Almost always a worn-out internal part: a degraded rubber washer, a failed O-ring, a corroded valve seat, or a worn cartridge. Water pressure slowly wears these parts down, and once they can’t seal fully, water seeps through.

Q: How much water does a dripping faucet waste?
A: A faucet dripping once per second wastes more than 3,000 gallons per year — enough to fill a small swimming pool. Faster drips waste proportionally more. Fixing it promptly pays for the parts many times over.

Q: How much does it cost to fix a dripping faucet yourself?
A: Usually $5–$40 in parts: washers and O-rings cost a few dollars, repair kits run $10–$20, and replacement cartridges $15–$40. Compare that to a $100–$250 plumber visit, and DIY is the clear winner for this repair.

Q: Can I fix a dripping faucet without turning off the water?
A: Technically possible, practically a terrible idea. You’ll be fighting water pressure the entire time, and one slip means a geyser in your kitchen or bathroom. Always shut off the water first — it takes sixty seconds.

Conclusion

Knowing how to fix a dripping faucet yourself turns an annoying, wasteful problem into a quick, cheap victory. Shut off the water, photograph your disassembly, replace the worn washer or cartridge, and reassemble. Thirty minutes, a few dollars in parts, and that 2 a.m. drip-drip-drip becomes silence. Your water bill will notice the difference too.